Bicycles, Beer & Battlefields

When we ( Vikki + Garreth Bruff) rolled away from our car at Howden on Day 1, soaked to the skin and shivering in a Yorkshire thunderstorm, we probably should have guessed what the next two weeks had in store. But that’s the joy (and madness) of a cycling holiday: whatever the weather throws at you, you just keep pedalling.

 Trip Stats at a Glance

·  Days on the road: 16

·  Total miles: ~600

·  Windmills spotted: 16+

·  Ferries taken: 4

·  WWII bunkers counted: 25+

·  Apple tarts eaten: Not enough

·  Beers sampled:  let’s just say “a fair few”!

·  Cobbled climbs conquered: The Muur van Geraardsbergen & Bosberg 

Storms, Ferries & Windmills

Our first 36 miles to Hull were wet, cold and chaotic. By the time we reached the ferry, we were ready to collapse — only to discover our tandem wasn’t allowed on board in the usual way. Instead, it went on a bus, then into a lift, and finally into the ship’s bike store. We made it though, and soon were warm, dry, and wondering how on earth to dry our kit at sea.

From Rotterdam, the real adventure began. Windmills became our constant companions (six on Day 2 alone), but so did relentless headwinds. We rode across bascule bridges, along canals, through farmland and into charming towns. Dutch apple tart (appeltaart) became essential fuel, and friendly locals often came to the rescue — like the farmer who let us shelter in his barn during a downpour before pointing us to the nearest café.

Belgium Bound

By Day 4 we crossed into Belgium, swapping Dutch windmills for Belgian coastal towns. Knokke wasn’t our cup of tea, but De Haan was a gem: historic, atmospheric, and somewhere we’d happily return to.

A morning paddle in the North Sea at De Haan started Day 5, before we cycled past endless golden beaches, WWII bunkers, lighthouses, and on into Veurne — a beautiful little town where we found an unforgettable meal at Hof van de Hemel – complete with their own Beer Sommelier!

Bruges was next, and it stole our hearts. We arrived via a blissful canal-side cycle path and headed straight to a brewery tour at De Halve Maan, learning about the 3.5 km underground beer pipeline (yes, really!). Our “rest day” turned into 15,000 steps of sightseeing: climbing the Belfry’s 366 steps, touring museums, cruising the canals, and of course, sampling moules, frites, and more Belgian beer.

History on the Road

Cycling from Bruges to Ypres was sobering. Riding through peaceful farmland, it’s impossible to imagine the devastation of a century ago — until you stand beneath the Menin Gate, surrounded by the names of thousands of missing soldiers.

The following day’s ride took us past more WWI memorials before reaching Oudenaarde, home to the Ronde van Vlaanderen museum, and the next day delivered a true cycling pilgrimage: tackling the Muur van Geraardsbergen and the Bosberg cobbles in pouring rain. It was brutal, beautiful, and unforgettable — we felt like true Flandrians.

From there, we immersed ourselves in the Battle of Waterloo at the 1815 memorial site, complete with films, exhibitions, and even a well-earned beer at Hougoumont farm. It felt a bit like being in an episode of Sharpe, and we loved it.

Cobbles, Canals & Cafés

The days that followed took us through suburban chaos and glorious cycling superhighways, along canals, and into the storybook town of Lier — where we stayed in a converted almshouse, locked our tandem in a former prison cell, and ate the best spaghetti in a “brown café”.

From there, we glided through forests and riverside lanes into Breda, before battling more wind, rain and detours than we thought possible en route back to Rotterdam.

Our final UK miles mirrored our first: 43 sodden, storm-lashed miles from Hull back to Howden. The Trans-Pennine Trail through Hull was grim enough to make us wonder what poor visitors must think of Britain’s cycling infrastructure. But we’d done it — sixteen days, over 600 miles, countless windmills, waffles, bunkers, and beers later.

Reflections

It wasn’t an easy holiday. We were battered by storms, beaten by headwinds, lost more times than we’d like to admit, and soaked through more days than not. But we also discovered stunning towns, moving memorials, and beautiful cycle routes.

We ate, drank, and laughed our way across two countries on a tandem, and came home with legs like lead and hearts full of memories.

Would we do it again? Absolutely. Just maybe with a little less headwind.

Vikki & Garreth